We continued north along the Coastal Route and our first stop was Bullers of Buchan, a collapsed sea cave just north of Cruden Bay. We walked along a narrow clifftop coastal path until we came upon a 30m deep chasm with the sea entering through the natural arch and seabirds flying, nesting and squawking and surrounding 200-foot cliffs, a spectacular sight.
The next place along the drive we visited was Maggie’s Hoosie at Inverallochy. This house has been restored to represent the life of a fisherwomen who lived there and her parents and siblings before her. The floors are earthen and there is no electricity or running water. Unfortunately, it was closed today so we could only see inside through the tiny windows. A little further up the road is a memorial for all those who have been lost at sea. There is also a shipwreck lying just off the point.
Tonight, we free camped at Fraserburgh near the golf course and this is our view from over the sand dunes.
5 June 2018 Fraserburgh – Inverness
First stop today was the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses at Fraserburgh. Inside the museum is a collection of glass lenses and the history of those who watched over the Scotland’s coastline for over 200 years. The collection of lenses is very vast and impressive. Next to the museum is the only lighthouse in the world built in a castle, Kinnard Head Castle and Lighthouse. It is situated at the entrance to Moray Firth and you can go on a guided tour inside. It is amazing to think that this was the first lighthouse to be established in 1787 in Scotland.
The next place we visited was the RSPB Troup Head Nature Reserve near Banff. We walked through fields and along a path to the cliffs to see an awesome sight of thousands of seabirds and hear their piercing cries. There are mainly gannet colonies with a few other species, but sadly no puffins.
Our next stop was the Portsoy Salmon Bothy which details the history the fascinating fishing traditions of the area. Unfortunately, it is only open on Friday to Monday and today is Tuesday, so it was closed! The area around Portsoy is small and quaint.
Next stop was Findlater Castle at Banff. We parked at a farm and walked along a about 1 mile to the ruins of the castle which stand on a rocky promontory projecting out into the sea. The castle remains that are still here are from the 14th century rebuilding when the castle was redesigned. The path which leads over to the castle is quite steep at times and challenging but going back was easier because we found a better path.
Next was Cullen. As you enter the town there is a viaduct which straddles the road and another long viaduct passing over Spey Bay for the train to pass along. The viaducts give an impression of a walled town especially as you drive down the main street. The harbour is very pretty.
The last visit of the day was to Portknockie to see the curiously shaped rock formation, the Bow Fiddle Rock. Its unusual shape has resulted from wave action wearing away at different rates on the various layers of rock that form this coastline. It is spectacular and does look like a bow and fiddle.
Finally, we arrived in Inverness where we parked in the carpark at Tesco which is open 24 hours.